Spacious 2 and 3-bedroom condominium residences from the low $400s

Spacious 2 and 3-bedroom condominium residences from the low $400s

Flock & Fowl celebrates simple goodness of chicken

June 2, 2018Exterior of the front of The Ogden and the shops and restaurants on the ground level

Yes, the chicken really is that good. Chef Sheridan Su’s Hainanese chicken has attracted a cult following at his Flock &Fowl spots on West Sahara Avenue and at The Ogden downtown.

It’s all about skilled cookery: Throw a chicken into some plain water and boil it mercilessly and you’ll end up with a bland meal. But taking a page from Hainanese-inspired chefs in Taipei, Su massages the bird into the ultimate comfort food, and it’s brought food-lovers flocking to his doors.

He starts with plump, free-range, air-chilled birds, inherently more flavorful than the supermarket variety, and poaches them gently with a touch of ginger just until they’re cooked through, then serves the sliced breast with skin and its layer of fat. The meat has a fresh-from-the-farm wholesome-grainy flavor, velvety firmness and impressive juiciness. Little pools of three house-made sauces — ginger-scallion, chile and soy — are on the same platter, the chile adding flair and fire thanks to a pronounced note of ginger. The accompanying rice is goosed with chicken schmaltz for silkiness, ginger and scallions for flavor.

At Flock &Fowl the signature dish is served in the traditional poached manner, or fried or roasted if you prefer ($14.99). The plate also includes the customary sliced cucumber plus two sides; juicy Chinese sausage and a fried egg balanced the flavors, adding richness. Other side choices are a vegetable, a one-hour egg or bone broth, in another nod to tradition.

Flock &Fowl’s menu is limited by design; the chicken is the main act. Beef lovers can get a fix with The Butcher’s Steak ($25.99), a 9-ounce hanger with a soy glaze that accentuates the meaty flavor while adding a touch of sweetness. On the side was a mountain of curly fries and a streak of Flock sauce, which tastes a lot like fry sauce (which contians mayo and ketchup) with some garlic crunchies on top.

If you’re just stopping by for a drink, snacks and starters also are served. Downtown Farmer’s Ricotta Toast ($8.99) was a hefty slice of lightly toasted egg bread smeared with ricotta and topped with the day’s vegetable (in this case tender, earthy wedges of roasted beets), a drizzle of oil and a sprinkle of microgreens.

Miso black garlic hummus ($8.99) had deep, mellow flavor, but the best part was crispy wedges of scallion pancake, much more appealing for dipping than the carrot and celery sticks.

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